How could anyone not be stirred with anticipation at the sight of the skyline of Istanbul? Anyone can be stirred by the sheer extravagence and scale of modern cities like New York. I prefer the tantalising promise of Istanbul. On the Bosphorus, which is said to be where East meets West, Istanbul holds out many of its jewels to the visitor arriving by sea. And the promise is more than fulfilled.
We drive into the city by bus and are dropped in a prosperous shopping street. Most of the Americans, wary of the undercurrent of Islam, stick with the shops. But right there by a mosque lies the entrance to the magnificent Bazaar – 4000 stalls and workshops, filled with gorgeous fabrics, leather goods, carpets and jewellery go on for ever.
Outside the Bazaar the sky darkens. Above us what seemes like the whole of Europe’s population of storks heads south. There must have been thousands.
We make our way on foot through the city towards the Blue Mosque. The beautiful Hagia Sofya cathedral is closed to the public on Mondays except for organised parties (and we had been too mean (again!) to book a trip from Cunard!). So we walked on by to the Blue Mosque and just gaped in awe at the majesty of the building, the dome, the carpet, the colour, the wonderful decoration and the surrounding gardens too.
Next we headed for Hagia Eirene, the Christian Church of Divine Peace. It was originally constructed by Constantine (the city was Constantinople of course!) in, wait for it, the fourth century, it was burnt down and re-built in 532!!! It makes our cathedrals quite youthful by comparison. To our deep regret, Hagia Eirene was also closed and only opens for concerts during the Istanbul festival. Hey ho … time for coffee.
Coffee in Turkey can only mean one thing – a strong thick dark liquid in a tiny cup. The Green Corner Cafe stood invitingly on a corner sheltered by cool greenery. Beneath the branches were tables … and some truly enormous sofas where you can put your feet up (take off your shoes!) and take coffee in exotic luxury. You can even order your hookah with a range of smoking materials on offer (no I didn’t, but I was tempted!)
Istanbul is hectic but never dull. There seemed to be no graffiti – and that matters because most metropolitan cities are afflicted by a plague of it. I adore Islamic art which we had first encoutered at the Alhambra in Granada, Spain, and it makes the beauty of Istanbul timeless and magical …
We leave Istanbul wanting more. Next stop, Ephesus.
